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I’ll start by saying this post is a long time coming. I built this rustic industrial pipe table months ago, and it’s been in our living room for quite some time now (so you may have noticed it in some of our home tour posts), but today we are finally getting around to sharing our tutorial.
Our DIY Rustic Industrial Pipe Coffee Table quickly became one of our top posts and we received a lot of positive feedback from those who tried to follow our plans. Since then, Alicia has always hinted that it would be nice to have a similar side table. As a husband, you learn to read between the lines when your wife makes a not-so-subtle hint. I kept this idea in my back pocket, with plans to build it for her in the future.
For our second anniversary, I was stuck for a gift idea. I wanted to do something personal and DIY (because that’s what we like to do rather than buying something), but the second anniversary gift is cotton. I have no idea how to knit or sew, nor do I plan on learning, so I thought to myself, what can I build that is similar to working with cotton? The answer is: nothing. So she was getting a gift made of galvanized pipe and wood instead. At least I knew she would like it!
Just like our DIY Rustic Industrial Pipe Coffee Table, this plan is incredibly easy to assemble and inexpensive. It is such a great balance of rustic and industrial that it works in almost any decor. This smaller table can also be used as a bed-side table or adjusted in size to fit any space. Another great idea would be to add a shelf across the support bars for some additional display area or storage.
And if you like this rustic industrial look, you’ll love our Rustic Industrial Shelf too.
DIY Rustic Industrial Pipe End Table
Supplies
Instructions
- Using the diagram above, attach the metal parts of the end frames together. You will need to do this diagram x2 since there are two ends.
- Cut your wood planks into 3 x 24″ pieces. Lay the cut wood planks on a flat surface and attach together on the bottom using the 8″ steel brackets. Make sure you leave the area you plan to attach the flanges to free of brackets. Or you can use a Kreg Jig to create pocket holes and attach the boards together, eliminating the need for the brackets, and it creates a much stronger top.
- Place frame upside-down on wood planks and attach to the metal flanges.
- Once you have the frame attached to the wood top, flip the table over. The nice thing about using the threaded galvanized piping is that you can just twist various parts to adjust the level of each leg if you have uneven floors.
- Feel free to distress the top for a more rustic look using a hammer, crowbar, golf club…whatever you have in your garage that will make a mark!
- Sand top and all edges.
- Stain in any color you choose and seal with polyurethane for protection from liquids.
Some of the tools we used and love…
Simple as that, you have a beautiful side table in no time at all!
Shawnna says
Love the table! So cool! Great job Nick!
Alicia says
Thank you Shawnna, he did a good job! 😉 xo
Celeste says
This turned out beautifully, and I just love those pipe legs on the table! It looks so lovely in your home!
Alicia says
Thank you Celeste, I love how it adds just that little bit of extra character. xo
Vicki Packham says
About how much did they cost to build?
Nick says
Hi Vicki, the table cost approximately $50 not including the stain or polyurethane.
Annie says
Love this table and it looks beautiful in your home!
Alicia says
Thank you Annie! xo
Rebecca says
How tall was the finished project? It looks like around 21″ based on my math?
Alicia says
Hi Rebecca, the finished table is 23″ high. 🙂
Shelley says
Hello,
We just finished building the coffee table and it turned out perfect! I want to do this side table next. How would you add the shelf underneath?
Nick says
Hi Shelley,
Glad to hear that you love your coffee table! I hope the instructions were easy to follow. We would love to see photos of the finished product! You can send them to nick@aburstofbeautiful.com
To add a shelf, I would cut two 6″ – 2×6″ boards a little bit longer than the span between the two legs. Put them on either side of the center 3/4″ coupling in the diagram and secure from underneath with clamps. Or, if your boards don’t fit because they are too wide, notch or cutout space for the legs so that the boards will fit snugly. Then you won’t have to put the clamps on. Hope this helps!!
Allison says
Hello! I love your designs! I’m wondering what paint color you have in this living room. Beautiful!!!
Allison says
I love all your designs so inspiring! I have the same couch, and I love your paint color. I was wondering what paint color you had in this living room? Thank you!!
Alicia says
Thank you, Allison! Our walls are painted Collingwood by Benjamin Moore, it’s a really pretty neutral. 🙂
Sue says
I was wondering how sturdy the table is. We wouldn’t sit on them, but would they be strong enough to sit on? Is it wobbly at all? I am adding a second shelf hoping it add some stability,
Nick says
We used to sit on it all the time! It was a sturdy as can be. The metal is very very strong. If you use a pocket hole tool to attach the top boards together as well (like the Kreg Jig) with lots of glue between the boards, it will be even stronger!
Signy says
Hello,
These table are fantastic! I’m looking forward to doing both the coffee table and the end table. What is the Length, Width and Height of the finished coffee table?
Thanks so much!
Nick says
Hi Signy,
I believe the coffee table size was 48″L x 29″W x 16″H. We have a new coffee table that I’ve built now, so I don’t have the pipe one on hand to measure it…I sure do miss that table…it was one of my favourite projects!